Safe to eat means it will not kill you – it doesn’t ensure it is delicious,” notes cook an innovative cook while snipping a fragment of stonecrop, a local plant. “This, however, offers great flavor.”
We’re exploring a seven-acre oceanfront small farm on the Hebridean island of Mull. Armed with shears, Carla provides a kitchen garden exploration and cooking lesson.
She identifies a berry plant whose tart berries she incorporates into grain recipes, and a aromatic plant that varies from the wild shrub growing freely on the croft.
“I had never planted anything before arriving on Mull,” she explains. I used to be in a urban kitchen where spices arrived dehydrated in a tub.”
The couple are part of a new wave of crofters or farm-to-table growers spreading across Scotland.
Reimagining Farming Traditions
Subsistence agriculture means essentially limited agriculture, with farmers traditionally keeping several creatures and growing produce.
Today, similar to modern self-sufficient cabin contrasts with rudimentary huts, the croft has been revitalized.
Today’s back-to-the-land desires, fueled by popular television shows, have transformed crofting into a modern agricultural dream.
From Ocean to Dish
In the case of this husband-and-wife team, their venture involves a restaurant and a charming retreat.
They first encountered each other 30 years ago when Carla responded to an advertisement for a chef on the adjacent island of Iona.
Her husband’s moniker is “the seafood expert”. Daily, he travels two miles to his small boat, arriving home with the haul that his wife prepares in their restaurant.
This isn’t fine dining,” she comments. Our style is casual dishes beautifully served.”
They grow about the majority of the fruit and vegetables for the eatery in their garden, everything from cardoons to wasabi.
They also forage native plants on the land. They’ve counted more than 150 periodic vegetables, flavorings and petals growing wild.
Architectural Eateries and Regional Producers
On the opposite side of the island, a second restaurant on a property is gaining attention for its design impact and its field-to-table dishes.
Jeanette Cutlack relocated to Mull originally from Brighton in 2008 and ran a temporary restaurant for years.
Her goal was to rebuild an unused croft and ruined barn.
Supported by an design professional, she commenced renovations. The outcome is a popular restaurant with simple design, open rafters, and expansive windows offering sea views.
Guests eat simple locally sourced dishes at long communal tables.
Growing Culinary Community
Initially, Mull was less developed than the Scottish islands’ culinary powerhouse, Skye, but it’s now emerging.
A culinary tour around the island highlights a growing number of artisan producers.
These include seasonal eateries that have become permanent fixtures.
Local foods – from trapped seafood to organic produce – are highlighted at these venues.
Artisan Crafting and Innovation
Established but ever-evolving, award-winning dairy creators operate just a short drive from the main town.
The family moved to the island years back and restored a rundown milk operation.
Currently, the farm’s eatery is a fabulous venue where visitors can sample specialty dairy and cured meats.
Remaining whey from crafting is now used in a modern spirits producer to make spirits and novel products.
This isn’t cloying like a spirit,” notes the cheese-maker. It’s similar to an spirit.”
For innovative approaches and wild gastronomic experimentation, the island is pioneering new paths.